The Story of My Ed. Heuer & Cie 125th Anniversary Moonphase Chronograph
aaron jibiThe Ed. Heuer & Cie 125th Anniversary Moonphase Chronograph (Ref. 188.215/1) was an unexpected addition to my collection. I wasn’t actively searching for it, but while browsing Chrono24 one day, I came across it. A watch with a name I didn't recognize but a dial that caught my attention.
Let me share how I ended up with this watch, why I think it's special, and what it's like to live with it on the wrist.
The Search for "The One"
Chronographs have always intrigued me. There’s something satisfying about that ticking central seconds hand and the mechanical complexity underneath the dial. But I tend to lose interest in watches pretty quickly. I tried a few chronographs before this, but none held my attention for long.
So, I decided to go after something more iconic. I considered a Omega Speedmaster Professional (out of budget). Then came the Heuer Carrera CS3110. I almost closed a deal for one, but it fell through at the last minute. Disappointed but still curious, I kept scrolling through listings. And then I saw this piece.
"Ed. Heuer & Cie" on the dial. I thought it was a knockoff at first. I mean, I’d heard of Heuer, but never this. Turns out, it’s a legitimate and pretty rare model made to celebrate the 125th anniversary of Edouard Heuer. I didn’t think twice. I hit the "Buy Now" button and never looked back.
The Dial: Simplicity and Balance
The first thing that struck me about this watch was the clean symmetry of the dial. Four subdials arranged just right.
- 12 o'clock: Moonphase display with a date ring around it.
- 3 o'clock: Chronograph minutes.
- 6 o'clock: Chronograph hours.
- 9 o'clock: Running seconds.
The moonphase is classic: a blue disc with gold moons slowly rotating to track the lunar cycle. No fancy twists, just a clean, traditional layout.
The dial itself is glossy white with printed Arabic numerals. Nothing overly flashy, and that’s what I like about it. The blackened gold hands add a bit of warmth against the cool white background. Everything just feels balanced.
The case? 34mm, gold-plated, with a lug-to-lug of 37mm and a thickness of 12mm. On paper, those numbers might seem small by modern standards, but on the wrist, it’s just right. Vintage watches like this have a different presence. They don’t need size to stand out.
The Movement: A Quiet Legend
Inside this watch beats the manual-winding Lemania 1883. If you know your chronographs, you’ve heard of Lemania. This movement was the foundation for the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. It’s reliable, accurate, and has a 40-hour power reserve.
There's something satisfying about feeling the tension build as the mainspring coils tighter. And while it’s COSC-certified and runs within ±10 seconds per day, what matters more to me is the connection it gives me to the watch.
Straps: A True Strap Monster
The original leather strap? Long gone. Age didn’t treat it well. But here’s the fun part: this watch looks good on anything. I’ve tried multiple straps —green, navy, brown—you name it. Every single one just works. I even saw someone online wear it on a gold jubilee bracelet, and while I haven’t tried that yet, it’s on my list.
If you’re in the UAE, you know how brutal the humidity can be. That’s why all our straps are lined with Zermatt leather from Haas Tannery—it’s hypoallergenic and sweat-resistant. You can check out more options at dunestraps.com if you’re curious.
Wrist Feel: Comfortable with a Touch of Class
It wears like a charm. Not too heavy, not too light. It’s one of those watches you forget is on your wrist until you catch a glimpse of it. The case curves gently, and at 34mm, it sits neatly without floating around. It feels like a dress watch but with the soul of a tool watch.
That said, I don’t wear it daily. It feels more like a "special occasion" piece. Something to wear when I want to feel a bit more put-together.
The History: More Than Just a Name
The "Ed. Heuer & Cie" name on the dial isn’t just for show. Edouard Heuer founded Heuer in 1860, and in 1887, he patented the oscillating pinion, a breakthrough still used in modern chronographs today.
This watch was released in 1985 to celebrate the company’s 125th anniversary. It came out right before Heuer officially became TAG Heuer in 1986, making it one of the last pieces to carry the pure Heuer heritage.
There are four variations of this model:
- 188.215/1 (mine)
- 188.205/1 (different lugs)
- 188.505/1
- 188.515/1
Good luck finding one, though. These rarely show up on the market.
Who Is This Watch For?
This isn’t a watch for someone who wants to flash a recognizable name. It’s not a Speedmaster or a Daytona. It’s for people who enjoy discovering hidden gems—those who appreciate subtlety and the stories behind the dial.
If you’re into "old money" vibes or love the idea of a stealth wealth timepiece, this watch fits the bill perfectly.
Would I recommend it? Absolutely—but only if you’re okay with people never noticing it unless they really know their watches.
For me, that’s part of the charm.